Fashion waste recycling and textile fiber recycling: the road to breaking the deadlock in sustainable fashion, from the present to the future!

Opportunities for environmentally friendly transformation in the fashion industry

With the increasing wave of sustainable development concepts and awareness around the world, the fashion industry is undergoing profound changes. Once upon a time, fast fashion swept the market with its low-priced and nearly one-time consumption products, but it also brought shocking resource consumption and environmental protection issues. Today, recycling of used clothing has become one of the key paths for the fashion industry to move towards sustainable development. According to the new report, more than 92 million tons of textile waste are generated every year around the world, a large number of which are landfilled. Synthetic fabrics such as polyester fiber commonly used in fast fashion take up to 200 years to decompose, and will be decomposed during the decomposition process. Release harmful chemicals to soil and water, seriously polluting the environment. At the same time, the fashion industry is also a major carbon emitter in the world, second only to the oil industry. Against this background, the importance of clothing recycling is becoming increasingly prominent. It can reduce landfill, protect natural resources, reduce pollution, and can also recycle precious materials such as polyester fiber and nylon for new clothing production, reducing the number of native resources. and effectively reduce the amount of water used in textile production.

Textile waste recycling status in mainstream countries

1. Generation and treatment of textile waste

Europe generates a large amount of textile waste every year, most of which come from clothing and home textile discarded by consumers. According to McKinsey's 2022 data, Europe generates about 7.5 million tons of textile waste each year, 85% of which are discarded by households and less than 35% are collected separately. Despite the existence of a variety of recycling technologies in Europe, such as mechanical recycling, chemical recycling and biorecycling, these technologies are still in development and face many challenges. For example, chemical recycling technology can provide high-quality raw materials, but its energy and resource consumption is high. In addition, the recycling efficiency varies greatly between different fiber types, which increases the difficulty of classification and recycling.

2. Recycling technology and classification

The EU has formulated relevant regulations requiring the establishment of a separate classification system for textiles and promoting the development of technologies such as mechanical recycling, thermal chemical recycling, and chemical recycling. Mechanical recycling is a commonly used method at present, but its scope of application is limited, mainly for well-classified fibers; while chemical recycling can handle mixed materials, but the supply is limited and the cost is high. Biotechnology (such as enzymatic hydrolysis) is considered an important direction in the future, with its advantage in reducing waste disposal and environmental impacts, but it still faces high costs and low efficiency problems.

3. Policies and regulations

Through the "Sustainable and Recycling Textiles Strategy" (2024) proposed that by 2030 all textiles must be durable, recyclable, harmless, and recycled fibers. The regulations also include a “product digital passport” mechanism that tracks textile composition and potential harm, while prohibiting the burning of unsold clothing. Countries have also taken specific measures, such as France banning the burning of unsold clothing, while Germany and the Netherlands have achieved recycling of textiles through redesign.

4. Market and economic impact

Europe is the largest clothing import market in the world, importing about 27 billion new clothing every year. But the textile recycling industry faces huge challenges, including insufficient recycling capabilities, weak infrastructure and high processing costs. Nevertheless, the recycling market in Europe is growing, with the market size expected to reach US$6.4 billion by 2029.
Retailers and brands in Europe are gradually increasing demand for recycled materials to comply with new regulatory requirements. Some companies have begun to use recycled fiber to produce new products, such as ECONYL® and REFIBRA™, which are widely used in sportswear and other fashion products. In addition, some innovative companies are developing new recycling technologies, such as the textile recycling plant developed by Marimekko in collaboration with Rester Oy.

1. Background

Due to geographical limitations, Japan has been facing the problem of resource scarcity for a long time, so it attaches great importance to resource recycling and recycling. In 2000, Japan promulgated the Basic Law on Promoting the Promotion of a Circular Society, proposing the "3R" principle (reduction, reuse, recycling), marking Japan's all-round transformation from a society with large consumption and large abandonment to a circular society.
About 90% of Japan's clothing is discarded every year, of which 64.8% are treated as industrial waste or ordinary waste, only 15.6% are recycled and 19.6% are reused. The treatment of textile waste has become an important issue in resource recycling, and the development of fiber recycling technology has become a key means to solve this problem.

2. Technological innovation and recycling technology
Japan occupies a world-leading position in the field of textile fiber recycling. For example, Teijin has developed a "fiber to fiber" recycling technology, which can crush used clothing and granulate it and re-made it into new fibers for production of fashionable products such as sportswear and tie. In addition, Toray Co., Ltd. and other companies have also developed polyester bottle recycling and regeneration technology for the production of Econeo fibers.

3. Policy objectives and future planning
The Japanese government has promoted the recycling of textiles through a series of policies and regulations. For example, the Basic Law on Promoting the Formation of a Circular Society and its supporting laws and regulations promulgated in 2000 provide a legal framework for the recycling of waste textiles. In addition, the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry of Japan has set a goal of recycling 50,000 tons of old clothes by fiscal year 2030, and plans to break down the discarded clothes from households into a ready-to-wear by 2030 and make largely of recycled fibers. At the same time, Japan also plans to increase the amount of second-hand clothes collected by local governments and support enterprises in developing new technologies to improve recycling efficiency.

4. Consumer awareness and market acceptance
Japanese consumers' awareness of waste textile recycling is gradually increasing, and ordinary consumers are no longer opposed to buying or accepting old clothes. Japanese clothing companies are also actively participating in the recycling and reuse of used clothes. Large clothing companies such as Uniqlo donate the recycled old clothing to those in need or use it as fuel and fiber recycling through the "all commodity recycling activities".

Japan has made remarkable achievements in recycling waste textiles, forming a complete system of coordination between policies, enterprises, technologies and the public. However, Japan is also facing challenges. Mixing fiber materials increases the difficulty of recycling, and the recycling rate needs to be improved. A large number of clothes are still incinerated or treated for industrial waste, and efficient recycling technology still needs to be further promoted.

Current status of recycling and development of textile waste in my country

As the world's largest textile producer and consumer, my country's annual fiber consumption is about 30 million tons, and the per capita fiber consumption reaches 22.4 kilograms, which has reached the level of a moderately developed country. However, with the rapid development of the textile industry, the production of waste textiles is also increasing rapidly. In 2021, China's waste textile production volume was about 21.24 million tons, but the total recycling volume was only 4.66 million tons, and the recycling rate was only 21%. This indicates that the recycling level of waste textiles is low and needs further improvement.

The policy objectives are clear. According to the "Implementation Opinions on Accelerating the Recycling of Waste Textiles" jointly issued by the Ministry of Commerce, the National Development and Reform Commission and the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, by 2025, the recycling rate of waste textiles will reach 25%, and the production of recycled fibers will reach 2 million tons; 2030 In 2019, the recycling rate increased to 30%, and the production of recycled fiber reached 3 million tons.

The policy content is rich. On the one hand, it improves the recycling system and encourages enterprises to expand to third- and fourth-tier cities and rural areas; on the other hand, it broadens recycling channels and promotes the "Internet recycling" model. At the same time, strengthen recycling management, standardize subject behavior, crack down on violations; standardize reuse, promote the standardization of old clothing exports, support charitable donations and expand the scale of recycling; cultivate leading enterprises in the industrial chain to strengthen the recycling of textile industry.

The standards are formulated in an orderly manner. The national standard for the "Technical Specifications for Waste Textile Recycling" (GB/T 37668 - 2019) has standardized the recycling and processing process and promoted resource recycling. The national standard for the "Technical Specifications for Waste Textile Recycling and Utilization" that is being formulated will also Help solve the problem of low recycling rate.

According to the calculations of the China Circular Economy Association, the production of waste textiles in my country in 2020 was about 22 million Tons, of which about 20 million tons of old textiles originating from the consumption link, including about 11.5 million tons of waste clothing and about 8.5 million tons of waste household textiles. Nevertheless, the recycling of waste textiles has increased in recent years, from 2.6 million tons in 2016 to about 6 million tons in 2023.

China has made significant progress in chemical recycling and biorecycling technology of waste textiles, mainly reflected in the following aspects:

1. Chemical recycling technology

1) High-efficiency chemical recycling of polylactic acid (PLA): Yu Linfeng's team from Fudan University used phosphodiester (DPP) as a catalyst to achieve efficient chemical recycling of waste PLA. This method requires no inert gas protection or external pressure, and only needs to convert PLA into oligomers under specific conditions and achieve closed-loop recovery through industrial routes.

2) Chemical recycling of polyester fibers: China has also made important progress in the chemical recycling of waste polyester fibers, including the development of a variety of chemical depolymerization and regeneration technologies, such as physical opening method, rapid identification technology, alcohol dissolution and Research on transesterification mechanism, etc.

2. Biorecycling technology

Bioenzyme degradation technology: Dr. Lin Xueqi's team at City University of Hong Kong has developed an innovative biorecycling technology that uses enzymes to efficiently degrade natural fibers (such as cotton) in textiles into glucose while retaining high-purity polyester residues. in the respinning process. This technology not only realizes the high-value utilization of textile waste, but also provides the possibility to replace fossil fuel resources.

3. Technological innovation and application:

1) Green and low-carbon technology forum: At the Chemical Fiber Green and low-carbon technology forum, Professor Chen Long of Donghua University emphasized the importance of recycling waste textiles and pointed out that chemical methods are an effective way to use high-value.

2) Advanced sorting and collection technology: At the forum on physical circulation and chemical circulation of plastics, the importance of advanced sorting and collection technology in plastic regeneration was discussed, and the application of these technologies in waste textile recycling was demonstrated.

Opportunities and challenges of industry development

1. Market demand: With the improvement of residents' consumption level, the production of waste textiles has surged, which provides a broad market space for the recycling industry. At the same time, consumers' awareness of environmental protection and sustainable development has also promoted the market development of second-hand transactions and recycled textiles.

2. Policy support: The Chinese government attaches great importance to the recycling and reuse of waste textiles and has introduced a number of policies to promote the development of the circular economy. For example, the Opinions on Accelerating the Construction of Ecological Civilization and the Circular Economy Development Strategy and Instant Action Plan both emphasize the importance of recycling of waste textiles. In addition, the National Development and Reform Commission and other departments have also formulated the goal of achieving the initial establishment of a waste textile recycling system by 2025, with the goal of increasing the recycling rate to 25%.

3. Technological advancement: In recent years, the recycling technology of used textiles has been continuously improved, including mechanical recycling, chemical recycling and biodegradation methods. The development of these technologies provides the possibility for efficient use of waste textiles and helps reduce environmental pollution.

At present, the development of fashion waste and textile and clothing fiber recycling industries faces many obstacles. The imperfection of the recycling system is a major problem. my country is still in the exploration period in this regard. The recycling order is relatively chaotic, the management methods are relatively backward, and there are lack of relevant standards. This makes a large amount of used clothes idle in residents' homes, and no formal recycling channels can be found, and the reasonable recycling process cannot be entered.

From a technical and cost perspective, closed-loop recycling from fiber to fiber is less feasible at the economic level, because the entire recycling process is not only expensive, but also technically difficult. These factors seriously limit the further development of the industry, make efficient recycling difficult to achieve, and also affect the economic benefits and sustainability of the industry.

In terms of consumer awareness, the public has a limited understanding of waste textile recycling, which directly leads to a low recycling rate. Although some brands have introduced points rewards and other measures to encourage consumers to participate in recycling, the overall results are not ideal, and the enthusiasm and initiative of consumers to participate are still not high.

However, we also face many opportunities. Against this background, if the fashion waste and textile and clothing fiber recycling industry wants to achieve sustainable development, it requires the joint efforts of all parties such as governments, enterprises, scientific research institutions and consumers. The government should continue to play the guiding and supporting role of policies to safeguard the development of the industry; scientific research institutions and enterprises should increase R&D investment and break through technical bottlenecks; relevant departments should improve the recycling system to make the recycling process more standardized and efficient; at the same time, Strengthen publicity through various channels, enhance consumers' awareness of waste textile recycling, and allow more consumers to actively participate in recycling actions. Only in this way can we truly promote the development of the industry and contribute to the world's environmental protection cause.

The fashion waste and textile and clothing fiber recycling industry is standing at the crossroads of the times, with opportunities and challenges coexisting. It not only carries the important task of environmental protection, but also is a key link in achieving sustainable development of the fashion industry. Although we are currently facing many difficulties such as imperfect recycling system, technical cost problems, and insufficient consumer awareness, driven by strong market demand, strong support from policies and continuous technological progress, future development prospects are still broad. The healthy development of this industry cannot be separated from the joint efforts of all sectors of society. Only when the government, enterprises, scientific research institutions and consumers work together can we gradually overcome difficulties, regain waste textiles, and reduce the burden on our planet. We will open up a new green and circular development path for the fashion industry and write our own brilliant chapter in the world's environmental protection wave. 3