A complete collection of textile knowledge points!- Jiaxing Fuda Chemical Fiber Factory

Commonly used textile calculation formulas are divided into fixed length system calculation formula and fixed weight system calculation formula two fixed

length system calculation formulas

(1), denier (D) = g/L*9000 where g is the weight of the silk thread (grams), L is the length of the silk thread (m) (2), tex (number) [tex (H)

]: tex=g/L*1000 where g is the weight of the yarn (or silk) (grams), L is the length of the yarn (or silk) (m) (3), dtex (dtex): dtex=g/L*10000 where g is the weight of the silk thread (g) and L is the length of the silk thread (m)

Fixed weight calculation formula

(1), metric thread number (N): N=L/G where G is the weight of yarn (or silk) in grams, L is the length of yarn (or silk) (meters) (2), imperial count (S): S=L/(G*840) where G is the weight of the silk thread (pounds)

and L is the length of the silk thread (yards).

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the conversion formula (1), the conversion formula for metric thread (N) and denier (D) =9000/N

(2), the conversion formula

for imperial thread (S) and denier (D) =5315/S

(3), Conversion formula for dtex and tex: 1tex=10dtex

(4), tex and denier (D): tex=D/9

(5), tex and imperial thread count (S): tex=K/S K value: cotton yarn K=583.1 Purified chemical fiber K=590.5 Polyester cotton yarn K=587.6 Cotton viscose yarn ( 75:25)K=584.8 Conversion formula for Velody yarn (50:50)K=587.0

(6), tex (tex) and metric number (N): tex=1000/N

(7), split tex (dtex) and denier (D) conversion formula: dtex=10D/9

(8) The conversion formula of dtex and imperial thread number (S): dtex=10K/S K value: pure cotton yarn K=583.1 Purified chemical fiber K=590.5 Polyester cotton yarn K=587.6 Cotton viscose yarn (75:25) K=584.8 Cotton yarn (50:50) K=587.0

(9), fractional tex (dtex) and metric thread number (N) conversion formula: dtex=10000/N

(10) Conversion formula of metric centimeters (cm) and imperial inches (inch): 1inch=2.54cm

(11), conversion formula of metric meter (M) and imperial code (yd): 1 yard = 0.9144 meters

(12), satin square meter grammage (g/m2) and mmi (m/m) conversion formula: 1m/m=4.3056g/m2

(13) The conversion formula between the actual weight of satin and the pound weight: pound weight (lb) = weight per meter of silk (g/m) * 0.9144 (m/yd) * 50 (yd) / 453.6 (g/yd)

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abbreviation about the fabric

C: Cotton

cotton W: Wool wool

M: Mohair

Mohair RH: Rabbit hair Rabbit hair

AL: Alpaca Alpaca

S: Silk

J: Jute Jute

L:linen

Ts: Tussah silk

YH: Yark hair Ly

: lycra Ram: Ramine Ram:

Hemp hem

T: Polyester polyester

WS: Cashmere

N: Nylon Nylon Nylon A

: Acrylic Acrylic

Tel: Tencel Tencel is the trade name of Lyocell fiber

La: Lambswool lamb wool

MD: Model Modal

CH: Camel hair

CVC: Chief value of cotton polyester cotton ratio (polyester content less than 60%)

Ms: Mulberry silk

R: Rayon viscose

fiber name abbreviation, code natural

fiber silk S

hemp L

artificial fiber, viscose fiber, R

acetate fiber, CA

Triacetate fiber, CTA

, cupraine, CVP

, polynosic

, protein fiber, PROT

, Newcell,

synthetic fiber, carbon fiber, CF, polyphenylene sulfide, PPS

polyacetal, POM

Phenolic fiber, PHE

elastane, PEA

polyetherketone, PEEK,

pre-oxidized acrylic, PANOF

, modified acrylic, MAC

vinylon, PVAL

, polyvinyl acetal, PVB

spandex PU

Boron fiber, EF,

chlorine-containing fiber, CL,

high-pressure cationic dyeable polyester, CDP

atmospheric boiling dyeing, cationic dyeable fiber, ECDP

polylactic acid fiber, PLA

, polypropylene terephthalate fiber, PTT

Polybutylene terephthalate fiber, PBT, polyethylene naphthalate fiber, PEN

polyethylene, polypropylene blended fiber, ES

chlorocarbon, Pvo,

poly-p-bento-dioxanehexanone fiber, PDS

elastic diene fiber, ED

isoaromatic polyamide fiber PPT

Par-aromatic polyamide fiber PPTA

aramid fiber PDSTA polyimide fiber Pi

ultra-high strength high mode

polyethylene fiber CHMW-PE

other metal fiber MTF

glass

Fabric classification and test method

Composition of fabrics:

fiber (fiber) - > yarn (yarn) - > fabric ( Fabric:

Wovenfabric,

knitted fabric,

nonwoven(non-wovenfabric)

1. Hand sensing visual inspection method:

This method is suitable for textile raw materials in the state of loose fiber.

(1) Cotton fiber is shorter and thinner than ramie fiber and other hemp process fibers and wool fibers, often attached to various impurities and defects.

(2) Hemp fiber feels thick and hard.

(3) Wool fibers are curly and elastic.

(4) Silk is a filament, long and slender, with a special luster.

(5) Only viscose fibers in chemical fibers have a strong difference in dry and wet states.

(6) Spandex silk has very large elasticity, and its length can be stretched to more than five times at room temperature.

2. Microscopic observation method:

it is based on the longitudinal and cross-sectional morphological characteristics of the fiber to identify the fiber.

(1) Cotton fiber: cross-sectional morphology: waist round, with middle waist; Longitudinal morphology: flat band, with natural turns.

(2) Hemp (ramie, flax, jute) fiber: cross-sectional morphology: waist round or polygonal, with a middle cavity; Longitudinal morphology: with transverse nodes, vertical lines.

(3) Wool fiber: cross-sectional morphology: round or nearly round, some have pith; Longitudinal morphology: scales on the surface.

(4) Rabbit hair fiber: cross-sectional morphology: dumbbell type, with hair pulp; Longitudinal morphology: scales on the surface.

(5) Mulberry silk fiber: cross-sectional morphology: irregular triangle; Longitudinal morphology: smooth and straight, longitudinally striped.

(6) Ordinary viscose: cross-sectional morphology: zigzag, leather core structure; Longitudinal morphology: longitudinally grooved.

(7) Rich fiber: cross-sectional morphology: less toothed, or round, oval; Longitudinal morphology: smooth surface.

(8) Acetate fiber: cross-sectional morphology: trilobar or irregular zigzag; Longitudinal morphology: longitudinal stripes on the surface.

(9) Acrylic fiber: cross-sectional morphology: round, dumbbell-shaped or leaf-like; Longitudinal morphology: smooth or streaked surface.

(10) Chlorine fiber: cross-sectional morphology: nearly round; Longitudinal morphology: smooth surface.

(11) spandex fiber: cross-sectional morphology: irregular shape, round, potato shape; Longitudinal morphology: dark and deep surface, ill-defined bone-shaped stripes.

(12), polyester, nylon, polypropylene fiber: cross-sectional morphology: round or special-shaped; Profile pattern: smooth.

(13) Vinylon fiber: cross-sectional morphology: waist round, leather core structure; Longitudinal morphology: 1~2 grooves.

3. Density gradient method:

it is based on the characteristics of various fibers with different densities to identify fibers.

(1) Density gradient solution is prepared, and the xylene carbon tetrachloride system is generally selected.

(2) To calibrate the density gradient tube, the precision pellet method is commonly used.

(3) Measure and calculate, degrease, dry, degassing the fiber to be tested for pretreatment, make small balls into balance, and measure the fiber density according to the suspension position of the fiber.

4. Fluorescence method:

the use of ultraviolet fluorescent lamp to irradiate the fiber, according to the different nature of various fibers emitting, the fluorescence color of the fiber is also different characteristics to identify the fiber.

The fluorescent color of various fibers is specifically displayed: (1), cotton, wool fiber: light yellow

(2), mercerized cotton fiber: light red

(3), jute (raw) fiber: purple-brown (4), jute, silk, nylon fiber:

light blue

(5) , viscose fiber: white purple shade (6), light viscose fiber: light yellow purple shade

(7), polyester fiber: white light blue sky light is very bright

(8), vinylon light fiber: light yellow purple shadow.

5. Combustion method:

according to the different chemical composition of the fiber, the combustion characteristics are also different, so as to roughly distinguish the large category of fiber. The combustion characteristics of several common fibers are as follows: (1), cotton, linen, viscose fiber, cupro fiber: close to the flame:

no shrinkage or melting; Contact flame: rapid combustion; Leave the flame: continue to burn; Odor: the smell of burning paper; Residue characteristics: a small amount of gray-black or off-white ash.

(2) Silk, wool fiber: close to the flame: curled and melted; Contact flame: curling, melting, burning; Leaving the flame: slow burning sometimes extinguishes itself; Odor: the smell of burned hair; Residue characteristics: loose and brittle black granules or coke shape.

(3) Polyester fiber: close to flame: meltdown; Contact flame: melting, smoking, slow burning; Leaving the flame: continuing to burn, sometimes extinguishing itself; Odor: special aromatic sweetness; Residue characteristics: hard black beads.

(4) Nylon fiber: close to flame: meltdown; Contact flame: molten, smoke; Leaving the flame: self-extinguishing; Odor: amino smell; Residue characteristics: hard light brown transparent beads.

(5) Acrylic fiber: close to flame: melting; Contact flame: molten, smoke; Leaving the flame: continue to burn, black smoke; Odor: spicy; Residue characteristics: black irregular beads, fragile.

(6) Polypropylene fiber: close to flame: meltdown; Contact flame: melting, burning; Leave the flame: continue to burn; Odor: paraffin smell; Residue characteristics: gray-white hard transparent beads.

(7) Spandex fiber: close to flame: melting; Contact flame: melting, burning; Leaving the flame: self-extinguishing; Odor: specific odor; Residue characteristics: white gelatinous.

(8) Chlorine fiber: close to flame: meltdown; Contact flame: melting, burning, black smoke; Leaving the flame: extinguishing itself; Odor: pungent odor; Residue characteristics: dark brown hard lump.

(9) Vinylon fiber: close to flame: meltdown; Contact flame: melting, burning; Leaving the flame: continue to burn, black smoke; Odor: characteristic fragrance; Residue characteristics: irregular burnt brown hard lump.

Common concepts

of fabric 1, warp direction, warp yarn, warp density - fabric length direction; This yarn is called warp; The number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is warp density (warp density);

2. Weft direction, weft yarn, weft yarn density - fabric width direction; The yarn is called a weft yarn, and the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the weft density (weft density);

3, density - used to indicate the number of yarns in the unit length of the woven fabric, generally 1 inch or 10 cm of yarn in the number, China's national standards stipulate the use of 10 cm yarn number to indicate density, but textile enterprises are still accustomed to using the number of yarns in 1 inch to express density. For example, the commonly seen "45X45/108X58" means that the warp yarn and weft yarn are 45 respectively, and the warp and weft density is 108 and 58.

4, width - the effective width of the fabric, generally used to be expressed in inches or centimeters, common 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, etc., respectively called narrow, medium and wide, higher than 60 inches of fabric for extra width, generally often called wide cloth, today China's extra wide fabric width can reach 360 cm. The width is generally marked after the density, for example: the fabric mentioned in 3 is indicated as "45X45/108X58/60" if the width is added: "45X45/108X58/60", that is, the width is 60 inches.

5, grammage - the grammage of the fabric is generally the grammage of the weight of the square meter fabric, grammage is an important technical indicator of knitted fabrics, and the grammage of woolen wool is usually also used as an important technical index. The grammage of denim fabrics is generally expressed in "ounces (OZ)", that is, the number of ounces per square yard of fabric weight, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces of denim, etc.;

6, yarn-dyed - Japan called "first dyeing fabric", refers to the yarn or filament dyeing, and then using color yarn for weaving process method, this fabric is called "yarn-dyed fabric", the production of yarn-dyed fabric factory is generally called dyeing and weaving factory, such as denim, and most of the shirt fabrics are yarn-dyed fabrics.

according to different processingMethod classification

1. Woven fabric:

a fabric that is interwoven by arranging vertically with each other, that is, horizontal and longitudinal two systems, interwoven according to certain laws on the loom. There are denim, brocade, tweed, linen, etc.

2. Knitted fabric:

a fabric formed by weaving yarn into a circle, divided into weft knitting and warp knitting.

a. Weft knitting fabric is made by feeding the weft thread from the weft direction into the working needle of the knitting machine, so that the yarn is bent into a circle in order and threaded with each other.

b. Warp knitted fabric is made by using one or several groups of parallel arns, which are fed into all the working needles of the knitting machine in the warp direction and formed in circles at the same time.

3. Nonwovens:

loose fibers are bonded or sewn. At present, two main methods are used for bonding and puncture. This processing method can greatly simplify the process, reduce costs, improve labor productivity, and have broad development prospects.

According to the classification of yarn raw materials that make up the fabric

1. Pure textiles:

the raw materials that make up the fabric are all made of the same fiber, including cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, Silk fabrics, polyester fabrics, etc.

2. Blended fabrics: The raw materials that make up the fabric are made of two or more different types of fibers

, which are blended into yarns, and there are mixed fabrics such as polyester viscous, polyester nitrile, polyester cotton, etc.

3. Mixed fabric:

the raw materials that make up the fabric are made of single yarn composed of two fibers, which are combined to form strands, including low-elastic polyester filament and medium-long mixed, and polyester staple fiber and low-elastic polyester filament mixed to form strands.

4. Interwoven fabric:

The raw materials that make up the two-direction system of the fabric are made of different fiber yarns, including ancient satin interwoven with silk rayon, nylon and artificial cotton interwoven with nifu spinning, etc.

According to the composition of fabric raw materials dyeing classification

1. White fabric: unbleached raw materials are processed into fabrics, also known as raw fabrics in silk weaving.

2. Color fabric: the raw materials or fancy thread after bleaching and dyeing are processed into fabrics, and silk weaving is also known as cooked fabric.

Novel fabric classification

1. Adhesive cloth:

It is made of two pieces of fabric that are back-to-back to each other by bonding. Bonded fabrics, organic fabrics, knitted fabrics, nonwovens, vinyl plastic films, etc., can also be combined in different ways.

2. Flocking processing cloth:

the cloth is covered with short and dense fiber flulees, with velor style, which can be used as clothing and decorative materials.

3. Foam laminated fabric:

It is a woven fabric or knitted fabric that adheres foam plastic to the base cloth, and is mostly used as a cold clothing.

4. Coated fabric:

coated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC), neoprene, etc. on the base cloth of woven fabric or knitted fabric, which has superior waterproof function.